4/17/2023 0 Comments Scalextric quickbuild cars![]() Any unnecessary friction means that electrical power going to the motor is turned into heat rather than speed on the track. Keeping all the moving parts rotating smoothly is crucial to good slot car performance. ![]() This will also remove lubrication from the gears, but we’ll re-lubricate in a moment. I use a combination of a toothbrush, cotton bud and tweezers. A pair of tweezers are included in the excellent Model Railway Screwdriver Set, although these curved tweezers are what I use and are great for getting into tight spaces.Ĭleaning Gears: If dirt, dust or scenic flock get into the gear mesh, it is important to remove it. It is especially important to do this regularly if your track is set up on a carpet. If hairs get in the gear mesh or the axle bushings, they will create friction that will both harm performance and cause the motor to run hot – risking permanent damage. It can sometimes be easier to remove the axle. Removing hairs: Use a pair of tweezers to remove any hairs or carpet fibres you can see – check the gears, the axle and the gap between the bushings and the wheels. Repeat this for the inside of the bodyshell – you’ll find that gets pretty dirty too. If there’s a lot of grease and muck, I soak the cotton bud in lighter fluid. In areas where there are greasy deposits – usually around the rear axle – I use a cotton bud. A good lung-full of air works wonders too. The soft brush sweeps up any dust, dirt and scenic flock that has got into the car. I use a ‘foundation’ make-up brush for the areas with no greasy spots. Underpan: If you don’t over-lubricate your car, cleaning is easy. ![]() Please be very careful scuffing the tyres if your car is fitted with a digital chip! Every now and then, a quick scuff on sandpaper will regain some grip too – that is also explained in part two of this Tuning series. This lifts off any dirt and should be done before every race to keep grip at a maximum level. I roll the rear tyres on the sticky side of some 5cm (2-inch) wide masking tape. Tyres: We looked at cleaning tyres in the second part of this Tuning series. **Caution** Lighter fluid is highly flammable! Take care when using it and follow the safety instructions on the tin. When the braids get too straggly and worn, it’s time to change the braid plate – there are spares underneath the box. I also tweak the braids to keep them tidy – straight front to back and not too bushy. Regular cleaning helps maintain performance. Wiping from front to back, this dissolves and removes muck and oxidation. I use AutoGlym ‘Super Resin Polish’.īraids: I clean braids using a good-quality cotton bud (Q-Tip) soaked in lighter fluid (naptha). If the paintwork is getting dull, scuffed or scratched, a little car polish will get it looking like new. Talking of screws, I use a silver marker to paint the top of the black Scalextric body screws – this makes them easier to find if they do roll off my workbench onto the floor.īodywork: A simple way of keeping your car looking nice and shiny on the outside is to wipe it with a clean, fine microfibre cloth – the type sold for cleaning glasses and phones. A budget alternative is a cheap computer gaming mat. I have a neat rubber work mat that has raised edges to keep tools and components separate and safe. I find it best to work on top of a soft surface that doesn’t scratch the car’s bodywork and prevents things like screws rolling away. The first thing to do is get the Mustang on my workbench. That needs cleaning out, but more of a worry would be if it got in the gear mesh – that could cause wear and damage. Despite cleaning the track afterwards – and wiping it down before every session since – there are still some bits of the flock lurking somewhere and the cars pick it up with their tyres. A while back, some of the track in my SL6 layout was used on top of scenic grass mats. This scenic material looks good, but gets everywhere. I am glad I cleaned up any excess lubrication when I first got the car – grease and oil are a magnet for dust, dirt and grime.Īnother thing I noticed are bits of grass ‘flock’ behind the front and rear wheels. ![]() Inside looks fairly clean, although on closer inspection there are quite a few hairs wrapped around the rear axle – I share my house with a cat and a long-haired human, so that’s to be expected. Most ‘nearly-new’ cars won’t be so lucky! The rear wing and mirrors are unscathed and there are no obvious chips to the paintwork or tell-tale scratches to show the car has been on its roof. The most obvious places on the outside are the braids, the tyres and few greasy marks on the bodywork. Although I have been careful with the car – and the track is set up on a clean floor – the Mustang is starting to get dirty, inside and out. There was the original review, the new car tweaks and preparation for next week’s blog. Over the past few weeks, the RACE Performance Ford Mustang GT4 has spent three long sessions on the Jadlam SL6 test track. ![]()
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